Portugal Ran on Renewable Resources for a Week

Little appears to have changed in the valleys of north-eastern Portugal for decades, perhaps even centuries. That is, if you can keep your gaze off the hilltops. Also, imagine away the pylons and forget the occasional tractor of an uncertain vintage coughing along the narrow roads. But look up, past the villages, the clumps of stout ponies and the wolf-haunted forests of pine, oak and eucalyptus, and the harbingers of a